In April 2014, when the dollar took everything to new heights, tour operators of domestic tourism was of the opinion that now goes to the development of the underrated Ukrainian beauty! And first of all the resort business, they say, will master Dzharylgach (near Skadovsk), Yagorlytsky Bay and Kinburn spit (stretching into the sea, the region of the Nikolaev area), where previously untouched by mass tourism. These places are really fabulous. That’s just to comfortable to visit recreational areas and tourist facilities it is still far — although since then the price of foreign holidays, it’s been a good three holiday season.
We on personal experience checked how difficult the road to the spit: sorry, fans of a carefree holiday “all inclusive” it is clearly not on the shoulder. And those who decide to shorten the route and to cross the estuary — and even unsafe.
DIFFICULT JOURNEY: BOAT PEOPLE ARE ILLEGAL AND THE ROCKET
The route, which will go on the spit, discourages to see it. First train to Nikolaev or Kherson, then bus to Nikolaev — Ochakov, and from there by boat, departing from the private jetty (schedule you need to specify the number looking for on the Internet)… Once or twice a day from Kherson (schedule is also sealed with seven seals) is sent to the bus. He shakes at the terrible potholes 5 hours to braid, and there people are transplanted into a converted passenger transportation all-terrain vehicle”Ural”, which takes on a sandy road to the village Pokrovka. Agree: not so I imagine the way the people who are going to rest.
From 1 July shipping of the Nikolaev company “NIBULON” started in Kinburn-ship missile from Kherson and Nikolayev (in the morning there and back). “This greatly simplifies the logistics — the rocket because there is only 1.5 hours from Nikolaev. That’s just a bad fit with the schedule coming from Kiev by train: it was thought not a tourist, but for local residents,” — said the head of Department on Affairs of youth and tourism of the Nikolaev regional state administration Alexander Maksimenko. And on July 6, for example, want to leave the braid vainly expecting a rocket on the shore: she broke down and didn’t come.
On a boat. Each of the sacks c
15 HOURS ON THE ROAD. We walked in Kinburn as all personal SUV: take the train Kiev — Nikolaev, then 1.5 hours on the bus to Ochakov. There from the private jetty 333Л three times a day, boats on the spit (passenger pier is not repaired, missiles of “NIBULON” does not come). Pier — hour or 70 UAH for taxi. On the way we were advised to stock up on supplies: everything is expensive on the spit. Later, it became clear that so do: languishing in the queue for the boat there were people with flasks from water, canned food, three day supply of bread and even bundles of firewood. Many went to camps and just savages, not for the first time.
“The mosquito net and repellents are not forgotten? Otherwise you will not survive: there are mosquitos, and store with a minimum set of goods”, — asked the neighbors experienced a savage with a fishing rod from Pervomaisk. “Nature — a miracle! If you go only for her and on the complete self, then you can. The service is not there”, — said the grandmother arrived, she said, come to the native from Kazakhstan.
On the seven winds. On the ship one protection — rain cover
ON THE SPIT. Boat goes 45 minutes, okutyvaya back passengers with spray. On the shore jeeps, motorcycles with sidecars and GAS to meet their guests and potential customers. To move to the other side of the spit, from Pokrovsk in Pokrovka, costs 600 UAH, and go a couple of kilometers on foot to the landing site from the estuary to the sea (here the braid ends, quite narrowly), you can quickly and free. Meadows — flowering herbs, head over the stall circling gulls and cormorants in the shadows of the cows…
Meeting. Three times a day, passengers waiting for vehicles
The sea meets the angry green waves — strong winds razboeva the sea and drove to the land of green slime. But this does not prevent the connoisseurs to enjoy the privacy of a scythe. They sunbathe under stretched on stakes mesh is extracted from the bottom of the Rapana and mussels, freshen up in coastal bar. The sand is fine and white, along the beach — camping for camping, where people dry Laundry and Smoking a hookah in the shade. From time to time there are slides stinking gutted shells — someone for lunch today the mussels. Well, a lot of debris — not all consider it necessary to take plastic and cans, and urns, of course, no.
“Here, take the husk from sunflower seeds”, — in a hurry to hand the bag to the bartender to the buyer of beer in a cafe. The establishment is the only island of civilization where strictly monitored for purity: there are bins for garbage, and pit toilet.
The campgrounds. The typical form of the rest of the spit
SUPPLEMENT FOR EXCLUSIVE. Grannies at the bus terminal in Ochakovo dream to rent a room “at least 80 per day”, and on the spit overnight in the private sector — at least 150 UAH. “In Ochakov, Nikolaev, and even milkshakes — 15-20, here — 35. Beer — 30 for 0.5 l chocolate — 35 UAH”, — is affected holidaymaker Paul.
“Urgently needed feminine hygiene products to get had through the store ordered, they somehow zapravili, pharmacies on the spit there! Navarro and they almost half of the price”, — says Lyudmila, came to rest at Kinburn with her daughter and mother.
What to do — active season on the spit is short, only 2 months, says an employee of the local bars, and the products were delivered the same hard way that people do. While we were there the boat unloaded a ton of the good kind: package with drinks, sacks of corn, Burger buns, gas cylinders and even refrigerators. The mistress of the order handed the captain a thick stack of bills.
The bulwark of civilization. Café feeds, waters and cleans
“But milk, for example, cheaper to order out of town than to take the local villagers — there liter 20 UAH”, — says the bartender.
The water on the spit is extracted from deep wells, says a local resident Vasily Linko and for uninterrupted power supply to many people bought generators. “While the spit was standing, say, 5 hat, one transformer was missing. Now, when the earth began to actively pavati and towns expanded, the voltage is not enough,” he explains. Energy shortages forced ginbornas to keep pace with the times: on the roofs of many houses — solar collectors-water heaters. And most of the houses are not shacks, but the solid brick of the new building, many with the expectation of guests. One problem: medical care on the spit will not wait.
“There is one nurse go to her home. If it gets serious, the ambulance will reach not, help out neighbours and taxi drivers with SUVs.” — shrugs Basil.
With all this, the inhabitants of the spit turning as I can: on the kitchen garden, paved with imported soil, strawberries are grown almost in every yard — booths-booths with Windows on the street peddling tat-dumplings. Pie — from 20 UAH.
“Maldives”. Nature is wondrous, but conditions like those of Robinson
By the WAY. On what grounds is working Barkas — unclear: of tickets for travel is not given, for the safety of the passengers do not respond. “These ships are operating illegally, and know that often go with overloads — recognizes the Deputy mayor of Ochakovo Alexey Vaskov. — Registered as private entrepreneurs, why not give tickets — I do not know. Liman — this is the territory of the district, the piers only send-take the court. Our task is to ensure that time paid for the land.”
Simple. Toilet and shower like in the campaign, in the lap of nature
THE TREND OF THE SEASON: WITH DEAR — IN THE WILD
When foreign tourism started to bite, people went where they were ready to accept, says Yaroslav Kozak, the head of the club of ecotourism “Good bohali”: the Carpathian mountains, where now in the summer to find vacant rooms in Zatoka, on the Arabat spit.
“It’s a lot of regions one way or another with organized infrastructure that is developing. New facilities are springing up like mushrooms, and prices going through the roof — holiday on the black sea coast for 50 UAH per day have sunk into Oblivion, on the Arabat spit room for 1000 UAH per day, is the norm, he says. — But the island Dzharylgach, like braid, tourist attractions I’d call that sparsely populated areas protected by law.”
The local population with such a statement is not in accordance with: the tourists want to earn everything. So, according to Alexander Maksimenko, the demand for recreation on kinburna is growing right in front: last year she took an order of magnitude more people than the previous one, and for inhabitants of the Nikolaev area became a tourist Mecca.
“It is difficult to provide statistics, convicted on circumstantial evidence. We know that more local for receiving guests in rural tourism farmsteads, but the data at leisure they do not give us” — explains the official.
OUTSIDE OF STATISTICS. Today in Internet you can easily find the exits is not less than a dozen recreation facilities on the kinburnsky spit, not to mention the private sector. But officially are just a couple, and cooperate with them “Tour Desk Tkachova” is one of the few agencies selling tours in the protected Paradise.
“Since then, as there was no Crimea, Kinburn, ask more often. Even among my friends many of those who go for a braid instead of Koblevo, which also rushed the crowd of tourists. And in General, people have more to go on the Nikolaev and Kherson areas”, — says the observations of the Manager travel Agency Karina.
However, it is not visible to the authorities invested in the “marketability” of the coast: base bending over backwards to promote their sites, improving and equipping of the territory (swimming pools, mosquito repellents). But to get through to them as before problem.
“Transfer to the residence while no one organizes even the Agency! The max base offer transportation to the beaches, which also have to go and get. This is already included in the price, and it is up to 600-870 UAH”, — explains Karina.
PLANS FOR THE FUTURE. Kinburn sand — spit, laying asphalt, then no one will. But, in fact, it is even the entrance is not normal. “The road is the beach here! — experienced tour guide says Kozak. “
The options of repair of the roads being worked out. The difficulty is that partly they belong to neighboring Kherson region”, — says Maximenko. Lie long shelved projects repair should not be — in fact, according to the head of the Department of tourism, KOs can’t escape from the status of the resort. So, the national natural Park “beloberezhye Svyatoslav”, which is responsible Kinburn, he has identified areas for development of recreational facilities and plans to hold a contest in which the territory will be looking for investors.
The requirements for these recreational areas is hard, and yet creative widely: today, in the words of Karina, KOs town you can find the maximum of cafes and restaurants. But who knows whether or not there tomorrow conditional water Park.
For guests. The new building, and solar storage batteries-water heater
THE SECOND SIDE: THE GARBAGE AND CHICKS
Alexander Maksimenko believes that it is necessary to consider the festivals and other interesting tourist activities on the spit. But admits that the load on the environment a unique strip of land is increasing, and the protection of nature under threat.
“This season, which will spit more and more people will become employees of the Park test. Gaining momentum jeeping, destroying the sandy soil, there is a problem of garbage — describes the situation of the official. Local already have to wrestle with where to put it, we collect meetings for this reason. Garbage disposal and drainage — problems for specific Kinburn (there is no landfill can not be, to take — difficult and expensive), and the influx of people exacerbates the situation”.
To counter the fans of jeep tours on the spit, according to Yaroslav Kozak, the activists came to the Ministry of the environment: rally dangerous for small animals and birds nesting on the sand, and very little conflict with conservation.
“Part of the Park — a protected area, part of the under the controlled recreation. The balance between man and nature is very fragile. Developed Hiking trails and special routes, and I prefer them not to deviate, — explains the expert of eco paths in Ukraine. — During the flowering of orchids here even come volunteers: to protect Europe’s largest Orchid field (60 hectares)”.
Anthropogenic pressure to the natural Park is calculated according to a complicated formula (including area, number of people and adjusting factors), the limit of visitors should not be exceeded. Dzharylgach, according to Kozak, until the suffering: customers are based in Skadovsk, to the island arrive only to walk in the evening and leave. But Kinburn, populated by people where there are new base and passenger flights, all comers may not be accommodated.
“It’s a great place, but not for mass tourism, — said Kozak. — Feature of the spit in the distance and nesudimosti. It is well to contemplate the sunsets and dolphins, taking pictures of swans. If you configure there are water parks — the scythe will be lost. It would be better to leave it for intelligent tourism.” Looks like that even if I ironed out all the problems, the scythe will still be an expensive vacation spot for the elite.
Trouble No. 1. After the guests, the mountains of garbage. Where to put it, the government decided
Braid is a 40-kilometer plot of land with an area of about 200 hectares formed between Yagorlytsky Bay of the Black sea and the Dnieper-bug estuary. Of entertainment — playing in the water with dolphins, white pelicans, seagulls, white swans mute and storks for three hundred Ozerets (the largest of which are Round, Long, babineaux), fishing, hunting and mushroom picking.
In the XV century on the spit stood a Turkish fortress of Kinburn, here today relic trees and a monument to the centurion Sidor White, who died in battle against the Turks. Herbs grow wild vines and ferns, are found endangered animals and birds, and near the village of Pokrovka at the beginning of may blossom rare European wild orchids.
There are your “dead sea” salt lakes, therapeutic mud and clay, and the legends about Cossack campaigns across the spit with seagulls, milky salt routes and the treasures of the Scythians. From there you can go to the ancient Greek settlement Borisfen on the Peninsula Berezan, to see the remains of the Turkish fortress, an ancient Cossack cross, and even find traces of the Turkish campaigns of count Suvorov.