Year no ATO: it is now breathing the peace of Mariupol

For a year of Mariupol, appeared in 2014 in the midst of the fighting in Eastern Ukraine, lives without the prefix ATO. It was canceled in April last year after the removal of the front line 25 km from the city. We went to see how returning to civilian life a city where not so long ago, Pro-Russian rebels shot peaceful residential district “East” on the outskirts and in the centre burned the Department of the interior

Before the war in Mariupol can be reached by plane Kiev — Donetsk (half hour flight) and from there by bus to Mariupol at hand. Now Donetsk is a temporarily occupied territory, and the Donetsk airport — a legendary monument to the courage of the Ukrainian “cyborgs” that held its defense until the last. A monument to heroism, where people stood, but could not stand the concrete.

Now to Mariupol from Kiev almost all get on the train. Given the fact that he goes through Zaporozhye, in flight is almost 16 hours. Previously the route ran through Donetsk, which at the time was much less than now.

The train journey from Kiev — one of the main topics of discussion. Not that plane, at least a high-speed train “Hyundai” allowed. It turns out that my fellow passengers on the route Kiev-Mariupol — travelers with a great experience.

Experienced not advised to save by buying ticket in economy class. These cars go mainly military.

— There is drinking and fighting. All — sigh the conductor.

We got in the car, slumped people teetotal but sociable. The door of the compartment was not closed until late. More than a message between the cities are all concerned about the war. Ironically, everyone who gathered for the evening Cup of tea in one of the compartments, I know about it from the news.

We once children are taken on holiday. Thought we’ll stay and everything will resolve, — shares his memories of the man who went from Donetsk in 2014.

— And so we thought it would be, as in Slavyansk, — said another.

Not resolved… — sigh.

Remember their abandoned houses, apartments.

A man goes to Volnovakha, and then in the occupied Donetsk to sell the apartment.

We already lost hope. But I called the realtor. He says he made a Deposit already.

Explains, the car decided not to go. Normal road no: 100 km from Donetsk, the track is dead literally.

— Attacks?— specify.

— No, — mind knowing the sides by armoured personnel carriers smashed.

— Yes, comrade, too, on the jeep was driving, says so right asphalt hump to go around had, as on the hill — wedged man.

— So I decided after Volnovakha. They say taxi drivers have established regular routes through the checkpoint. But how to take out the money? “Danerous” say more than a thousand dollars to carry are not allowed.


— Russia transfers to Ukraine even banned. In that sense, if you go to Russia, and from there forward.

Paused for a moment.

— Money is okay, but the furniture as you take it? I ask.

All sides in perplexity turns to me. You know, say something.

We even did not think never, they say. — Then, in 2014, when the attacks were come to take people, their dogs, cats, all taken in the first place. Then those who remained (friends, neighbors), passed, as I could photograph. That’s all.

— The apartment with furniture to sell?

— Of course, with furniture, curtains, rugs, towels, kitchenware. With all that we were there. Take only photographs that are left.

— It hurts?— specify.

— Very, — said my companion, — I remember we finally got my wife to buy the apartment back in the 90s. Exchanged for “odnushku” with an additional charge. But then the times were so turbulent, and the information that the apartment is sold, transferred through a friend that the bandits did not recognize. There daughter was born in this apartment.

It is noteworthy that when I later shared with one of the mariupolchane the fact that the train I had to meet someone who went to the occupied Donetsk to sell my apartment (absolutely unbelievable in my brain typical of Kiev), who contrary to expectations wasn’t even surprised. Only eagerly said:

— For how much? How many sold?— and perplexed: And you didn’t ask? And the apartment although in the centre, no? Because we… and our…

The fellow passengers in the train asked:

— Well, at least you will be able to sell. And here is how those houses and flats, in which those who remained in the occupied territories, moves in without permission? How can that be, when the territory returns home, under the control of Ukraine?— ask.

— Just let them try, I them with his hands thrown out of our house, the nasty invaders — throws the young girl. — We have a cottage left in SHIROKANE. A year never know with her. Before mom called the neighbors, and now they had moved out. And there are all the mother, the grandfather was doing with his hands. There we go — and at once the sea and on the banks of apricot growing. And one branch of it — just like the bench, is a natural phenomenon. There we loved mom to sit and watch the sea. I have them all all…

— Well, that’s not right, then gently reason with her interlocutors is that we cannot judge those who were there. After all, someone’s parents are sick…

— Yes, and teachers, professors, doctors “danerous,” say, under pain of death not released… — says the guy.

— Well, impossible. As well as they can? Visit Mariupol for Ukrainian pension. And my grandmother, who unlike them, the second retirement in the occupied territories, gets, comes, and she stands up and goes may not even take place, with me another 20 people. Pool from Donetsk.

The interlocutors are silent. Gradually the conversation returned to Mariupol.